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Gear cable adjustment

Note whenever changing gears you should do so with the motor turning to give them the best chance of meshing easily. Remove the plug and  use pedals rather than the motor while adjusting! In the 2-speed Quickly the gearbox selector is sprung towards second gear (selector plunger spring to full extension, fully out from the casing). The motor uses a single gearchange cable but if this is disconnected and the engine rotated it will automatically settle into 2nd gear. The cable is used to pull the selection plunger (attached to the gear fork internally) inwards. This movement selects in turn  neutral and then 1st. Changing back up 1st to neutral or neutral to 2nd or first to 2nd in one movement occurs under the restorative pressure of the spring inside the box. The cable limits the outward movement of the plunger according to the twistgrip position so it stops at neutral for instance or is permitted to keep  moving to 2nd, but the outward movement itself is driven by the int...
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legshields and carburettor

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The legshields on this bike incorporate a small cover for the carb. The air slide pin is extended to pass through this and ends in a (degraded) bakelite knob. Sadly this fell apart when I removed the cover but I'll keep the pieces. This pin isnt listed in current parts catalogues. Legshields are held on at 3 points... under the tank... 19mm nuts each side Very short, they just pass through the tank into the hex rubber mount. Tilt forward and lift off the tank (fuel hose broken on mine) revealing the hex mount system The rubber blocks unscrew by hand I reassembled it inc the small bolts for storage. It's also held at the front by a cross brace. This is retained by 2 screws with cup washers below the louvres. Remove these screws... ...and the cross brace comes out The legshields are now held by 2 10mm nuts onto a pass through stud at the lower rear. In my case one nut came off but ...
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Rear Mudguard, Bench Seat Support Bracket and Shock Absorbers

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OK, so the number 1 piece of advice for removing the rear fittings is REMOVE THE WHEEL FIRST. I couldnt do this as the front wheel was already off and the bike has to stand on something! This makes access to nuts under the mudguard etc very difficult/impossible and I wouldn't recommend. But.. for my own records this is what I did. My first thought was to remove e the bolt from centre of seat carrier to mudguard... this comes out with its spacer between the support brace and mudguard. Didn't really take the right photo as I was expecting to remove the 4 cheese head screws that hold the shock chrome trim on... in fact I didn't need to. Once that central bolt was removed I found the mudguard was quite free.... this is because I had already removed the 2 screws that pass through the toolbox and mudguard. The upper is a button head bolt to  nut under the mudguard... and I had to drill the head off as Icouldnt reach the nut with the wheel in place. The lower is a spec...
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Front Forks and Front Suspension

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